RSS

Know Your House: Roof Structure, Styles and Materials


If you’re a homeowner, the more you know about your house and its components, the better you can care for your investment. A roof provides one of humanity’s most basic needs: shelter. Here’s a quick primer on roof structure, styles, and materials.

Basic roof structure

The framing boards that form the pitch of a roof are called rafters. The base ends of those boards rest on 2” x 8” or 2”x 10” boards called joists, which in turn rest on top of exterior and interior walls. Sheets of thermal board, plywood or another type of sheet lumber called OSB are nailed on top of these boards to form a covering. This layer is called roof decking. A waterproof fabric material called a vapor barrier, which repels water that may leak through the shingles is laid atop the decking. The final layer, visible from the exterior, is shingles, tiles or metal.

Inside a home’s attic, on the underside of the deck, there may be an insulating thermal coating called a radiant barrier. If your home is older, this may have been added later, but today thermal decking used in new construction has radiant insulating material on its underside.

The roofline you love

The look of the roof contributes a lot to the appeal of a house. There are styles of roofs for everyone’s taste, both for the entire house and for any dormers on the roof. Here are some of the most popular.

  • gable roof is peaked with two sides that are of equal height and upward slope.
  • hip roof has pitch on each side and on the ends of the house. All four sides slope upward. A house can have a main roof that is not hipped but dormers that are.
  • Gambrel roofs evoke the shape of a barn. These roofs slope down from the peak on two sides, then slope again at a steeper pitch.
  • Flat roofs need no explanation but are popular with some architectural styles.

Dormers can add interest to long expanses of roof. Perhaps the most popular dormer is the classic gable dormer, which rises directly from the main roof at a right angle, with a peaked roof of its own of equal height and slope on each side. An arched or eyebrow dormer has a long, gently arched roof.

Roofing materials

There are many types of roofing materials and many new innovations introduced in recent years.

  • Asphalt shingles have been almost ubiquitous for decades because they are durable, come in many color choices, and are effective in climate conditions everywhere. Asphalt shingle roofs last about 20 years.
  • Slate and ceramic tile roofs are beautiful, last many decades, and are suitable for warm climates. You often see them in homes in the southwestern U.S. and California. They are heavy, and the roof framing that supports them must be stronger than most of the other roof structure.
  • The classic metal roof is laid in large, overlapping sheets, although In recent years metal has been fashioned to mimic slate and ceramic tiles. Metal roofs can last more than 50 years. Two downsides to metal roofs are that hail may dent them and they are noisy during heavy rain (although some people like this feature).
  • You don’t have to settle for the stereotypical large solar panels if you want to be environmentally friendly and save on electricity costs. Solar panels can now be made to look like tile that can be used as roofing.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.


Read

Living With Pets In Small Spaces


Whether you are single, a couple or a family with kids, living in a small space means adapting to tight quarters. Now add a dog, a cat or both, and the space seems even smaller. How can you live harmoniously with pets in small spaces?

Be very practical

Focus on having just enough furnishings. Save the statuary or other accessories that take floor space for a future, more spacious setting. For now, make life with pets in a limited area easier by focusing only on seating, dining, sleeping and storage that use the minimum floor space necessary. Look for furniture that can do double duty, such as cabinets that can house dog beds or litter boxes.

Go up, not out

Make use of shelving to take items off the floor. Use baskets in shelving spaces to store pet toys, supplies and even pet beds. Your cat might like to sleep up high on a shelf. Hanging baskets can also be used for the same purposes and require no floor space.

Creative use of small spaces

Look for clever places to keep bowls, litter boxes and bedding if you live with pets in small spaces. How about a television cabinet fitted with a doggie door and his bed inside? Or the same space under a stairway or inside a bedroom nightstand?


A low drawer can house food and water bowls and be tucked out of sight afterward. A cabinet with a pet door can open to the litter box. Laundry spaces often provide the best opportunities to keep pet accommodations away from actual living areas. Just make sure your pets always have access to drinking water, their beds and, if you have cats, a litter box.


If you have more than one pet, keep in mind that you may need two feeding spots to prevent rival hostilities.

The great outdoors

Install a pet door on the back door to a patio, deck or balcony so that your fur baby can spend time enjoying fresh air while you have time to yourself. Once again, be practical in your furnishings if the outdoor space is as tight as indoors. Limit yourself to seating, a grill and a table. Provide a water bowl, but not a feeding bowl, as food outside invites unwanted visitors like raccoons.


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.


Read

Extreme Temperatures Affect Appliances


It makes sense that temperatures might affect outdoor appliances, but did you know that extreme temperatures can affect appliances inside your basement, garage or house as well? Here’s what you need to know about temperature’s effect on appliances and what you can do to prevent damage.

Refrigerators and freezers

A refrigerator can shut down in freezing weather if located outside or on a poorly insulated exterior wall in a cold garage or basement. Conversely, extremely hot exterior temps make refrigerators and freezers in these areas work extra hard to maintain temperatures, increasing energy costs.


If you must keep an extra freezer or refrigerator in an unheated garage or basement during the winter, use a space heater to warm the area. Be sure to place the heater safely away from anything combustible and use it only as long as needed to raise temps above the -34 degrees celsius / mid -30 degrees fahrenheit. If there’s an ice maker, insulate its water supply line and, in the bitter cold, turn it off and drain the line.


For home owners in warmer climates, if you have that extra refrigerator or freezer because you need more space for food, calculate the cost savings of buying a new, larger unit for inside the house and eliminating the outside one.

Washing Machines

Icy winter temperatures can cause problems with your washing machine. To prevent damage from ice, keep the washer’s water supply line insulated in winter. When temperatures are expected to drop dangerously low, turn off the water at the wall valve, disconnect it from the washing machine, and drain it.

Water heater

Water heaters are usually located in a garage, attic or basement, all of which are areas subject to freezing temps. To prevent damage when the mercury drops, insulate the water supply line to the heater. Each year, hire a plumber to drain and flush the tank to remove sediment.

Heating and air conditioning

The HVAC component most at risk in winter is the outside condenser. If you live in an area of the country that gets a lot of snow, place a protective hedge, screen or cover around the unit to block snowdrifts or ice from covering it.

When you’re away

If you’re planning to be away from your home for an extended period in the winter, you’ll likely turn down the thermostat to save energy costs. To avoid frozen pipes and other potential damage, though, it’s best not to go below around 12 degrees celsius / 55 degrees fahrenheit.

 


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract. The article was revised from HOUSEOPEDIA'S original article.


Read

How to Draft-Proof Your Home for a Lower Heating Bill


If you turn up the thermostat and don't feel the heat, there's a problem. Old windows, worn doors, and poorly installed outlet covers are basically an open invitation for the frigid winter air to make its way indoors. To avoid feeling the draft — and cut down on your heating bill — follow these tips from the Good Housekeeping Institute.

Pay Attention to These Key Areas

Before you go around looking for leaks and drafts, it helps to know where to start. Keep an eye out for these common problem areas that often let cold air in.

  • Electrical outlets
  • Switch plates
  • Door and window frames
  • Baseboards
  • Fireplace dampers
  • Attic hatches
  • Wall- or window-mounted air conditioners
  • Cable TV and phone lines
  • Vents and fans

How to Detect Leaks

Switch on a flashlight.

At night, shine a flashlight, like the Maglite Mini PRO LED Flashlight, on door and window frames. If the person on the other side sees light, you may have a leak.

Grab a dollar bill.

If you think doors are to blame, slip a dollar bill (or standard piece of paper) under the door. If you can pull the dollar bill out without it dragging, then you have a significant air leak.

Light some incense.

Turn off the furnace and water heater and turn on exhaust fans. Hold a lit incense stick by windows, outlets, doors, and any other suspected areas. If smoke blows sideways, you likely have a leak.

Use a thermal leak detector.

Invest in a thermal leak detector, like the Black & Decker TLD100, to read surface temperatures of walls, doors, floorboards, and more. If the reading is a lot colder than the air, there's a leak.

How to Get Rid of Drafts

For cracks less than 1/4 inch, use caulk.

To fill cracks near windows and doors, use a long-lasting caulk that's made for outdoor use. GE Silicone 2+, a Good Housekeeping Institute favorite, is 100% weatherproof, sun-proof, and freeze-proof (a.k.a. it's basically indestructible). In general, look for caulks made with mold-free technology that adhere to common surfaces.

For cracks between 1/4 inch and 3 inches, use spray foam.

Avoid messy foam drips by finding a spray foam that comes with a straw, like GREAT STUFF Insulating Foam Sealant. This quick-action foam deflects water and is tacky to touch in just eight minutes. Unlike caulk, spray foam can be more difficult to use so we recommend dispensing it onto newspaper before tackling trouble areas. To quicken the curing process — the time it takes to settle — mist the area with water before and after spraying.

For doors, use a draft stopper.

Draft stoppers, like this best-seller on Amazon, Home Intuition Draft Stopper, prevent cold air from sneaking in under doors. It may not be as discreet as caulk or sealant, but it gets the job done. You can choose from weighted cloth versions that stay on the floor or plastic draft guards that fit around the door itself.

For bigger problems, fix your insulation.

If the insulation in your attic doesn't reach the top of the floor joists, there's not enough to trap heat. Visit a home improvement store for DIY attic insulation or hire someone to get the job done.


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.


Read

No Home Should Be Without Carbon Monoxide Detectors


Similar to smoke alarms, carbon monoxide detectors are an essential warning device in every home — perhaps even more so. While sleeping residents might be awakened by the smell of smoke and take action, carbon monoxide is odorless and can disable and kill without warning.


Odorless and invisible. Carbon monoxide is produced whenever a fuel is being burned. It is odorless and invisible. Car exhaust produces carbon monoxide. So can a charcoal fire, a gas- or oil-burning heater, or even a wood-burning stove. All of these must be vented to the outside to not only remove smoke, but also carbon monoxide.

Here are some of the most common sources of home carbon monoxide poisoning.

  • Home heating system. A home with a gas heater produces carbon monoxide, which normally is vented out of the house. With age, a part called the heat exchanger can crack and allow the gas to leak into the home. Other home heating dangers can occur with any sort of portable, fuel-burning device that is not vented. Gas log fireplaces must be properly vented as well.
  • Appliances.  Gas-burning stoves, ovens, dryers and water heaters all produce carbon monoxide and must be properly vented.
  • Generators. During a power outage, generators should only be operated outside to vent exhaust. Never run a generator inside a house or garage.
  • Automobiles.  Never have a car, motorcycle or any gasoline-powered vehicle running inside a closed garage. An unhealthy buildup of carbon monoxide gas can occur even if the garage door is open.

Symptoms of poisoning.  Symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning can be mistaken for the flu minus a fever. Headache, dramatic tiredness, dizziness and confusion are all indicative of carbon monoxide poisoning. Final stages of carbon monoxide poisoning are lack of muscular control, and unconsciousness leading to death.


Prevention. Have fuel-burning appliances installed by trained, licensed professionals. Have the appliances inspected annually and repaired, if necessary.


Install carbon monoxide detectors. Some smoke detectors now have dual capability. Place one in each bedroom or just outside the bedroom door so that anyone sleeping in the house will be awakened in an emergency.

If you suspect carbon monoxide poisoning, leave the dwelling immediately and call 911. Seek medical evaluation and let the fire department examine the property for a leak. Do not return to the house until the source has been identified and repaired.


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.

Read

Dealing With Home Temperature Differences
 

Owners of two-story homes know the dilemma well: The upstairs tends to be hotter and the downstairs cooler. This makes managing the thermostat challenging. Why does your home have these temperature differences, and what can you do to make things more comfortable throughout the house?

Baby, it’s cold downstairs

The problem is one of thermodynamics. Heat transference makes colder air sink to lower spaces while warmer air rises to higher ones. In winter, your HVAC has a hard time keeping the downstairs comfortably warm because the heat rises to the second floor. In the summer, the cooler air downstairs feels nice, but the upstairs is warmer than you want.

Here are steps you can take to help moderate home temperature differences.

Start with temperature differences in the attic

To make the upstairs more comfortable, start at the very top. Make sure you have plenty of insulation in the rafters between the attic spaces and the upstairs rooms. If you don’t already have a radiant barrier on the underside of the roof decking overhead, consider having one added.


Examine recessed lighting fixtures and return air vents in the attic to ensure there’s a good seal around them. Make sure you have adequate weather stripping around the edges of attic doors and ceiling hatches. Put a layer of insulation on hatch doors.

Windows and their coverings

The upstairs windows can be another source of heat transference that contributes to temperature differences. Keep shades drawn to insulate from the hot rays of the sun. If your windows themselves are older and not energy efficient, shop for new ones, particularly those with “low-E” glass, which inhibits heat transference.

Use fans

When you are upstairs, use ceiling fans. They don’t actually cool the air but they keep it moving, which makes you more comfortable.

Addressing the temperature difference in the HVAC system

Have your HVAC system inspected and serviced once a year. Head off problems in advance that could contribute to inefficient operation. Have the HVAC pro inspect the ducts for any leaks, especially the ones that service the upstairs. Perhaps it’s warmer there in summer in part because the cool air is leaking out before it even arrives in upstairs rooms. Inadequately sized ducts and return registers upstairs can also contribute to temperature differences, so have an HVAC pro check to see that they’re the proper size.


Keep your heating and air-conditioning filters changed on a regular basis. Allowing air filters to become clogged with dust makes your HVAC system work harder, contributing to uncomfortable air temperatures and higher energy bills.

If you have one HVAC system and one thermostat to service both stories of your house, talk to your HVAC professional about investing in a zoned system. This would provide each floor with its own heating and air as well as thermostat. Although a significant investment, zoned systems make it much easier to achieve balanced air temperatures than does a single system servicing both floors.


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.


Read

Adding a Fence To Your Property
 

Backyard fences are a popular choice these days, particularly if you’ve got small children or pets that wander. But before you put up the first panel or pound in the first fence post, drive through your neighborhood to see what’s customary and check with town or neighborhood authorities to see if there are rules governing the height of fences, what materials can be used, and whether or not fences must be landscaped.


Still not sure? Here are a few pros and cons to fencing, along with a quick guide to the types of fence materials. 


Benefits. A well-chosen fence can add a sense of place and help define your property. If you have pets or children, a fence will keep them contained. You’ll also need a fence if you have a pool. Many people like the privacy fences afford them. More secure fence options can also keep unwanted visitors off your property.


Drawbacks. In some cases, a fence may not be a good option. This may be the case if you live in an area where most homes don’t have fences. Erecting a fence may make your home feel isolated and unapproachable. Using low quality materials or a style that doesn’t coordinate with neighboring fences can detract from your home.


Fencing options. Fencing options — both style and material — are wide ranging. The best choice for you will depend on the purpose of your fence, the types of existing fences in your neighborhood, and your budget.


Metal and chain link fences are durable, and work well to define a property or contain animals. While chain-link fencing isn’t particularly attractive, it is an inexpensive option. The average price for metal fencing is around $9 CAD per foot, to around $5 per foot to $15 USD per foot.


Wood fences can be used for neighbor-friendly picket fences or privacy fences. Wood choices are wide-ranging but one of the most popular is pressure-treated lumber, which resists rotting and requires less maintenance. Fences can be left natural or altered with paint or stain but require more maintenance. Wood fencing costs at around $15 CAD per foot, to around $5 per foot to $10 USD per foot.


Vinyl fencing is easy for a homeowner to install because it’s lightweight and comes in panels. Though durable and requiring little maintenance, vinyl won’t work for security fencing. Range from $22 per foot to $33 CAD per foot, to around $20 USD per foot, vinyl fencing is affordable.


Aluminum is an alternative to wrought iron that offers a similar look at a more affordable price — from around $29 to $42 CAD per foot, to $30 USD per foot. It is often used to border a yard or pool.


Wrought iron is a strong material with longevity. Its benefits include an attractive traditional style and excellent security. This kind of fence must be made and installed by professionals and comes with a hefty price tag. Wrought iron fences may cost up as much as $130 CAD per foot, to around $100 USD per foot.


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract. Prices above does not include labour for professional installation. Prices and listing order were revised to reflect estimates in both CDN & US dollars from HOUSEOPEDIA's original article. 




Read

Tips on Selling a Home with Pets

When pet owners put their homes up for sale, it’s best to make those beloved animals disappear without a trace or at least a low profile. The dog beds, the cat crates, the hair, the chew marks and the smell all need to be removed before the first showing. Here’s a step-by-step guide on selling your home with pets.


Priority one: odor and stain removal. Even a pet-loving buyer will be turned off if the house smells. Pet and smoking odors rate as top turnoffs. You may have become “nose blind” to your pets’ smells, so have a friend do a sniff check.

  • Have your carpets professionally cleaned with enzyme solutions that remove organic smells and stains.
  • Keep pet bedding clean and ready to stash in your car when notified of a showing. The same goes for food and water bowls.
  • Bath dogs weekly. Unbathed dogs smell and the odor can work into carpet, cloth upholstery and drapery. Inside cats rarely need bathing, but if they do, a rubdown with a wet towel is a good option.

Hair removal. While on the market, vacuum and sweep daily to remove pet hair. Chase down dust and hair bunnies under furniture. Wipe down cabinets and shelves. Brush your pet two or three times per week to limit shedding.


Repair damage. If the dog has chewed the woodwork or walls, make all repairs before showing the house. If your hardwood floors are noticeably scratched, refinish them or risk buyers walking away. Any signs of pet damage may cause buyers to pass on your house, questioning what other issues may be lurking.


Clean up your yard.  Remove dog waste daily. If your animals have torn up the lawn, it’s best to reseed or lay sod.


Vacate the premises. Your pets — and all their belongings — should be removed from the house during showings. Besides being a turn off, you don’t want to risk a pet biting or scratching prospective buyers or their children. You also don’t want them to be a distraction to buyers. Ask that your home be shown by appointment only and then be prepared to load up your pets and all their gear when you get the call. If that’s not possible, make arrangements with a friend, relative or neighbor to keep your pets during showings. If indoor cats or crated dogs needs to stay home, let all showing appointments know ahead of time. 


Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract. Article was revised from HOUSEOPEDIA'S original article.


Read
Data is supplied by Pillar 9™ MLS® System. Pillar 9™ is the owner of the copyright in its MLS®System. Data is deemed reliable but is not guaranteed accurate by Pillar 9™.
The trademarks MLS®, Multiple Listing Service® and the associated logos are owned by The Canadian Real Estate Association (CREA) and identify the quality of services provided by real estate professionals who are members of CREA. Used under license.