Technology has accelerated the ability to have a super energy-efficient home. Here are seven must-have ways to slash your usage and cost.

1. Cool roofing. The roof takes the brunt of the sun’s energy and absorbs heat, affecting the cooling of the whole house. Light colored roof shingles were introduced to help mitigate that heat, but now “cool roofs” offer dark colored shingles that reflect the sun’s heat. The Certainteed company offers two lines of these heat-reflecting shingles. 

2. Radiant Barrier.  A radiant barrier is a reflective coating on the underside of the roof decking. It has a plywood sheet with a shiny metallic side that faces into the attic. The house still needs to have proper R-19 or better insulation in the attic floor. A radiant barrier under these conditions can deliver 16 percent to 42 percent heat reduction over no barrier, which would translate to a 15 percent to 25 percent reduction in energy bills.

3. Thermal wrap. Thermal wrap is installed on the outside of the frame of the house to keep the home’s heating or cooling inside. There are different wraps for different types of exterior siding. Some consist of a flexible sheet of plastic while others are a combination of thermal wrap attached to wall board. The wrap is attached to the frame and then the exterior siding or masonry is installed. The thermal wrap also provides a moisture barrier to protect the interior of the walls from water and mold damage. Today’s thermal wraps provide an R5 insulating protection.

4. Low E windows. Double-paned glass has now been surpassed by triple pane, adding another insulating barrier to windows. Low E coated glass allows maximum light in while keeping hot summer infrared wavelengths and damaging ultraviolet rays out.

5. High-efficiency heating and air conditioning.  Heating and air units manufactured in the last five years are far more efficient than previous models, using far less electricity or gas. Examples include new technologies designed to manage the heating and cooling in ratio with humidity levels, multi-speed fans, and improved refrigerant valves. 

6. Smart thermostats.  The latest generation of smart thermostats such as Nest, Ecobee, Wyze and iComfort put fine tuned control in your hand through your phone. These smart systems measure outside temperature to calibrate internally, learn and anticipate your choices and sense from your phone’s location when you are nearing home, adjusting temperatures as needed.

7. Water heater. Heating water for your home is second only to heating and air in energy use. Tank water heaters are more efficient than the past, but still generate “standby heat loss,” meaning that it must be heated continually to ensure hot water on demand. Tankless heaters do not store water, but flash heat it on demand.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract. The article was revised from HOUSEOPEDIA’s original article.

Keeping your home warm in winter and cool in summer depends on a whole system of comfort engineering. Chief among the components is insulation, the blanket of material in the walls and attic that resists the flow of heat transference from outside to inside and vice versa. Technology and the move toward greater environmental awareness have brought great improvements to insulating material. Here’s a look at what’s available.

Understanding “R” value.  Stuffed inside the outside walls and covering the attic spaces, insulation serves as a blanket to hold heat in place where you want it. Insulation is stuffed or blown into the spaces between wall studs, beams and joists. Insulation, which varies in thickness and quality, is measured in “R” factor. *See the links below for the accepted standard R-Values for insulation in walls and for attics in Canada and USA.

Fiberglass and its improvements. For three or more generations, fiberglass insulation has been dominant. It has served well but health concerns have surfaced over airborne fibers when it is disturbed. Manufacturers now make fiberglass available in sealed bags. Recycled materials are also now being used. The insulation can be blown in or rolled out like a blanket stuffed between studs or joists.

Cellulose. Made of ground-up newspaper and other paper products and treated with a flame-retardant chemical, cellulose was introduced about 25 years ago. It is inexpensive and has a higher R value than fiberglass. Typically it is blown in with a machine.

Recycled denim.  Cotton treated with fire retardant is also used as insulation — the most neutral material for people with allergy sensitivities. Some of the recycled material used comes from discarded blue jeans. Similar products are being made with sheep’s harvested and cleaned wool, which is treated to be water- and mold-resistant.

Spun minerals. Providing excellent R factor, mineral-based insulations such as basalt are multipurpose insulators. This type of insulation has the added bonus of being impervious to damage from water, fire and termites.

Sprayed foam. Made from a variety of materials, spray foam insulation gets pumped into wall spaces and between studs where it hardens and forms a virtually solid barrier to heat loss. Foam board can also be used for the sheathing on the outside wall studs. These foam panels form both an extra layer of insulation and a moisture barrier.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.

*The article was revised from HOUSEOPEDIA’s original article. 

*You can find the for R-Value ratings in Canada's Province, Cities & Zones on Home Depot Canada: 

www.homedepot.ca/en/home/ideas-how-to/home-repair-and-maintenance/how-to-choose-insulation.html

*You can find the R-Value ratings for the US on ENERGY STAR: Recommended Home Insulation R -Values: 

www.energystar.gov/campaign/seal_insulate/identify_problems_you_want_

fix/diy_checks_inspections/insulation_r_values

It makes sense that temperatures might affect outdoor appliances, but did you know that extreme temperatures can affect appliances inside your basement, garage or house as well? Here’s what you need to know about temperature’s effect on appliances and what you can do to prevent damage.

Refrigerators and freezers

A refrigerator can shut down in freezing weather if located outside or on a poorly insulated exterior wall in a cold garage or basement. Conversely, extremely hot exterior temps make refrigerators and freezers in these areas work extra hard to maintain temperatures, increasing energy costs.

If you must keep an extra freezer or refrigerator in an unheated garage or basement during the winter, use a space heater to warm the area. Be sure to place the heater safely away from anything combustible and use it only as long as needed to raise temps above the -34 degrees celsius / mid -30 degrees fahrenheit. If there’s an ice maker, insulate its water supply line and, in the bitter cold, turn it off and drain the line.

For home owners in warmer climates, if you have that extra refrigerator or freezer because you need more space for food, calculate the cost savings of buying a new, larger unit for inside the house and eliminating the outside one.

Washing Machines

Icy winter temperatures can cause problems with your washing machine. To prevent damage from ice, keep the washer’s water supply line insulated in winter. When temperatures are expected to drop dangerously low, turn off the water at the wall valve, disconnect it from the washing machine, and drain it.

Water heater

Water heaters are usually located in a garage, attic or basement, all of which are areas subject to freezing temps. To prevent damage when the mercury drops, insulate the water supply line to the heater. Each year, hire a plumber to drain and flush the tank to remove sediment.

Heating and air conditioning

The HVAC component most at risk in winter is the outside condenser. If you live in an area of the country that gets a lot of snow, place a protective hedge, screen or cover around the unit to block snowdrifts or ice from covering it.

When you’re away

If you’re planning to be away from your home for an extended period in the winter, you’ll likely turn down the thermostat to save energy costs. To avoid frozen pipes and other potential damage, though, it’s best not to go below around 12 degrees celsius / 55 degrees fahrenheit.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract. The article was revised from HOUSEOPEDIA'S original article.

  

If you turn up the thermostat and don't feel the heat, there's a problem. Old windows, worn doors, and poorly installed outlet covers are basically an open invitation for the frigid winter air to make its way indoors. To avoid feeling the draft — and cut down on your heating bill — follow these tips from the Good Housekeeping Institute.

LED lights have revolutionized lighting, replacing old incandescent and fluorescent bulbs and saving energy. Understanding the various LED light colors, however, can be confusing. Let’s illuminate the differences.

LED savings

Lighting is measured by two metrics: lumens and watts. Lumens measure a bulb’s light output, and watts are the measure of electricity needed to generate that output. A Light Emitting Diode (LED) bulb uses only 20 percent of the electricity that an incandescent bulb does to produce the same lumens — a big cost and energy savings.

Warm to cool

LED light bulbs come in warm white, natural white and cool white. What do these names mean, and how are the various colors best used in your home?

Lighting power is described on LED bulb packages with a number shown in thousands followed by the letter “K,” which stands for kelvins, the unit used for measuring light temperature. The tone of the light from a bulb covers a temperature scale from “warm” light, with a slight amber tint, to “cool,” with a brighter white tint. The higher the number before the K, the brighter and cooler the light.

A 2700K bulb, for example, will cast a warm look, making for a more relaxing setting. A kelvin range at or above 5000K means light from the bulb will be bright, cool and possibly harsh. At the midrange of the kelvin spectrum is natural lighting, with a kelvin rating of around 3500K.

Location determines light temperature

Bulbs in the lower-kelvin range work best in most of the house, from living areas to bedrooms. Lighting can affect your mood, so a warm look invites relaxing in these rooms. Lower-kelvin bulbs are closest to the old incandescent “soft white” lighting.

Higher-kelvin cool lighting is best for work areas such as the laundry room, garage and workrooms. This lighting brings out detail and color in a room. Most commercial offices use cool lighting, so it also makes sense for task-oriented residential rooms.

The décor of a room can also play a role in your lighting selection. Areas with rich wood floors and furniture benefit from warm lighting. Rooms with lots of white might look best with midrange natural lighting. The highest cool white bulbs, however, could make mostly white rooms look stark or even harsh.

Not intended to solicit buyers or sellers currently under contract.